Monday, December 23, 2019

Pandoro, a Decadent Christmas Cake




Christmas is almost everyone's favorite holiday. It certainly is mine! Beyond the spiritual significance of the occasion, I believe the great appeal of Christmas is its joyful vibe, its spirit of sharing, and its wealth of sweet delicacies.

Typical Christmas desserts vary from one culture to the other, but they all tend to be rich and decadent. 'Tis the season to be jolly... not to worry about the waistline, right? We shall practice self-discipline in the days to follow, but for now let's make a heavenly dessert that hails from the land of a million and one culinary delicacies: Italy.

Pandoro is the typical Christmas dessert of Italy and is pretty similar to the more famous Panettone. These days, you don't have to travel far to get either of these cakes as they are readily available in major supermarkets and good pastry shops. But what if I told you that you can make pandoro at home and it is not as complicated as you might think? Tempting, right?

A bit of history before we tackle the recipe. The origin of pandoro is disputed, but many agree that it originated in the city of Verona. In the past, wealthy Venetian families would decorate the cake with golden leaves, which may account for its name. Luckily, you won't need any expensive ingredient to make this light-as-air cake at home.

The cake does not call for bizzare or exotic ingredients, but it does require some patience, so make sure you're well-stocked in that department. Just follow the steps presented in the recipe below and you'll be rewarded for a cake fit for Christmas or any other celebration.

Please note that the cake requires the preparation of three types of dough. The process is simple, but like I said before, it requires some patience.

(I adopted the recipe from this blog.  I used the same ingredients but reduced the amount of sugar and added 2 extra flavorings to the dough).

All ingredients:
  • 450 strong bread flower (at least 13% protein)
  • 105 g sugar
  • 170 g unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk
  • 60 g lukewarm water or milk
  • 10 g milk
  • 18 fresh yeast
  • seeds of half vanilla bean
  • zest of half lemon
  • 1 tsp dark rum (optional)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • butter to grease the mold
For the preferment:
Mix the egg yolk, 60 g lukewarm water or milk, 15 g yeast, 10 g of sugar and 50 g of flour. Once combined, cover and let it double in volume, which should take an hour to an hour and a half. 

1st dough:
  • 200 g flour
  • 25 g sugar
  • 3 g yeast
  • 30 g  butter
  • 1 egg
  • the preferment
  • 5 g milk
To a mixing bowl, add the preferment, sugar, yeast, milk and egg, and mix with hook attachment on low speed until all ingredients are well incorporated.
Slowly add the flour and keep mixing until the dough is smooth (5 to 10 min) then add the butter and mix again for another 5 minutes. Cover and let it double in size again. The time will depend on the room and dough temperature, so start checking after an hour.

2nd dough:
  • 200 g flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 70 g sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Vanilla
  • Orange zest
  • 1 tsp rum
  • the 1st dough 
  • 5 g of milk
Whisk the eggs with milk and rum. Add the vanilla, salt, zest to the first dough. Now add the egg mixture and start mixing again on low speed.
Start adding the flour slowly and keep mixing for at least 15 minutes. You should get a strong and slightly sticky dough.
Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a greased bowl and let it double in size again. Once it doubles in volume, you need to let the dough rest overnight in the fridge (8 to 12 hours of resting). 

The lamination:
  • The fermented dough 
  • 140 g of  butter
The lamination process consists of incorporating a substantial amount of butter into the rested dough. You can add the butter as one block or as smaller pieces, but the process is the same.

Work the dough with a rolling pin until you get a square of about 30 cm.  Arrange the butter in the middle, fold the corners then roll into a rectangle about 40 to 45 cm long. Fold the bottom to the middle then the top to the middle, like a letter, then rotate 90 degrees, cover and let it rest in the fridge for 15 minutes. (The recipe link has pictures that can help you understand the process better).

Roll again into a rectangle with the seams facing you. Fold again and repeat the process three times resting the dough 15 minutes in the fridge between each fold. When you roll for the last time, let the dough rest on your counter for 15 min. Grease your hands and form the dough into a ball and carefully place in the mold with the seam facing up. Now you need to let the dough rise until it reaches the top of the mold.

Preheat the oven to 170 C and prepare it so it has enough space to account for the rising dough.
Place in the oven and bake for 10 minutes then lower the temperature to 160 C and keep baking for another 30 to 40 minutes. If the top is browning quickly cover it with aluminium foil. To make sure the pandoro is cooked insert a skewer if it comes clean then the cake is done. The cake's internal temperature should be around 90 C, so if you have a suitable thermometer, you can use it to check the cake's readiness.

Let the pandoro rest 5 minutes in the mold then flip it on a cooling rack and let it cool completely.

You can enjoy this brioche like delicacy as it is or you can get creative and serve it with jam, sweet sauces and more.

Buon Natale everyone.

Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Spicy Pumpkin Donuts


After a much-needed break of over a year where I had to care for personal matters, it is time to get back to food blogging. I couldn't be any happier. Food, and especially baking, is not only a hobby for me, but it's a cure, it's cathartic on several levels. I know for a fact that a lot of you are on the same boat. Food drives us and motivates us, it's not just a basic survival need, but it's part of who we are and how we view the world.

While creating this recipe I reconnected with the joy of testing the right combinations of flavor and texture, of styling and photography. Despite the hard work it takes, it is my ultimate comfort zone; the zen space that I cherish the most.



Donuts seem just like a banal dessert that you easily snatch on the go from your favorite "donut" shop. But don't let the humbleness of dessert fool you. If done right, it is a wonderful treat that offers endless customization possibilities. Making donuts at home puts you in full control over the flavor and texture that appeals the most to you.
This particular donut recipe delivers light, pillowy, sweet and mildly spiced donuts that just capture the best fall flavors. What's best is that the recipe makes use of a bountiful ingredient this time of the year: pumpkin. There is no shortage of pumpkin recipes on this blog and this is a welcome addition that I am sure you'll love and enjoy with a warm cup of coffee, perhaps spiked with the wafting aroma of pumpkin pie spice.



For 10 to 12 donuts you need:
  • 300 g flour (I used 150 g bread flour and 150 whole spelt flour, you can use all bread flour if you want)
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 to 2 tsp of mixed spices (add the spices you prefer)
  • Zest of half an orange
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract or paste
  • 60 g butter, cold or at room temperature
  • 40 g brown sugar (I used coconut sugar and maple sugar)
  • 6 g salt
  • 100 g pumpkin purée (I make mine)
  • 60 ml of warm milk (37C)
  • 5 g fresh yeast
First, in your mixer bowl, mix the yeast and milk and stir well until it´s dissolved, then add 60 g of flour and mix well. Then add the rest of the flour, cover and let it proof for 30 minutes. This step will make your donuts softer and last longer. Now add all the other ingredients except for the butter, and  with the hook attachment and mix for at least 10 minutes on medium to low speed.

If the dough feels a bit dry, add more milk. Keep in mind that different flours absorb water differently. 

Add the butter and mix again for another 8 to 10 minutes or until your dough is smooth and no longer sticky.

Cover the dough and let it double in volume. This should take around 2 hours.

Now, slowly deflate your dough by bringing the sides to the middle, cover again and put in the fridge overnight. I start working on the dough in the evening, so before I go to bed I just pop it into the fridge and leave it to ferment slowly and develop its beautiful flavors.

The next day , drop the dough on your lightly floured counter, and roll it out to about 1 cm thick.
Using a round cutter, cut the donuts and place them on parchment paper. This is optional, but I usually cut parchment paper squares to fit only one donut as this makes it easier to handle the donuts later on, but you can place all your donuts on a single paper. 

The cut donuts need their final rest to rise and puff. Depending on the warmth of your kitchen, this may take anything from one to two hours. Yup making donuts requires some patience.

Now we're ready for frying. Fill your frying pan with about 2 to 3 cm of vegetable oil and heat it to 180 C. The oil should not be too hot or else the dough will burn on the outside and remain raw in the middle and if it's cold the dough will absorb the oil like a sponge.
Fry the donuts until golden on both sides. Don't forget to flip the dough so both sides have a nice and even color. Placing the donuts on individual parchment papers helps me to place them in the oil directly without losing their shape as the dough is quite fragile when raw. 

Put the fried donuts on absorbing paper to get rid of any excess oil. 

You can simply dust your donuts with simple powdered sugar, or glaze them. Here;s how you do both:

  • Simple sugar glaze: just mix 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar with a 1 tsp of cinnamon. 
  • Maple glaze:  mix 2 tablespoons of maple syrup and add enough powdered sugar until you get the desired consistency, which should not be neither too runny nor too thick. 
The donuts should keep well for up to three days but of course they are best fresh.

Enjoy this delicious dessert with its typical autumnal flavors that go so well during Thanksgiving.